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Simple
ideas about what to do and what to avoid
to safely preserve your family jewels.
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| Acid-free
what? |
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Acids
naturally a part of paper and photographs contribute to deterioration.
When paper or plastic is "acid-free", it means that
acids have been removed in the manufacturing process to produce
a neutral medium. Usually, lignin (one of the "active
ingredients") in newspaper yellowing is removed too.
Sometimes, other chemicals are added to "buffer"
the items against acids which assult papers, photos and textiles
from other places. So, only use acid-free and lignin-free
papers and acid-free glues and plastics and your preservation
activities. When dealing with paper, try for "buffered"
paper too (and "buffered" envelopes for b & w photos)....
Like a Rolaids for your treasures.
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| No
kissing! |
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The delicate surfaces of photos should never touch, as is the
case when they are on opposite pages of a photo album or scrapbook.
Always protect against scratching and the migration of chemicals
and acids by selecting albums with interleaving pages or which
use archival plastic page protectors. |
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| Basement,
attic, garage |
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Your treasures are a lot like you ... they like it not too
hot, not too humid, not too dry, not too cold. They don't
like to be assaulted by gas fumes, paint, or smoke or eaten
by inects or rodents. So keep your family jewels out of unheated
basements, attics, and garages and store them in the living
areas of your home. Linen closets usually offer up loads of
space once you actually put the towels in the bathroom!
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| Sticky
business.... |
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When mounting your photos and memorabilia, beware of:
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pressure sensitive tape (ie: scotch tape) unless it is
special archival tape (and then, use with caution)
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rubber cement glue
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photo corners which are not acid -free
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lamination
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stickers places on top of photos and keepsake
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| The
evils of magnetic albums |
| Popular
in the 50's and 60's (and even today!) , magnetic albums have
a sticky page to which you place a photo and a plastic clingy
page. Little did anyone know, not only is the glue used on the
sticky page dangerous for photos, but the plastic page also
causes a multitude of sins! Save your photos and get them out
of those albums! To remove photos, proceed carefully because
the photos tend to rip, depending on the level of deterioration.
Try a little dental floss in behind the picture; pull gently
back and forth until the photo starts to lift. |
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| Dangerous
Inks |
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Don't
use ball-point pen to label the backs of your colour photos
... it goes blurry over time and also promotes acids which
can compromise the photo. The same goes for felt pen on photos
and paper. Try pencil (ONLY pencil for b&w prints and paper)
or a Sharpie permanent pen for the backs of colour prints.
Archival
inks are permanent, acid-free, and black in colour. Try archival
pigma-gel ink, available basically anywhere. Ink jet printers
do not produce archivally-permanent ink, but laser printers
do!
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| "Invest
in Plastics!" said the guy in The Graduate. |
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What he really meant to say was "for your keepsakes, textiles
and photos, only use archival plastics such as Mylar, Polypropylene
or Polyethylene." Steer clear of PVC plastic, drycleaning
plastic, grocery bags, non-archival ziplock bags, and Rubbermaid-type
containers for storing your jewels. True, Rubbermaid is one
of the world's best inventions -- just not for stuff your are
preserving! |
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| The
great Newspaper Disappearing Act |
| Whenever
possible, photocopy any newspapers or clippings you want to
keep on to acid-free paper and discard the originals. Black
and white laser copying is best. If you just have to keep the
entire paper (ie: paper on the day baby was born, the first
paper of the year 2000, etc), the check out our newspaper preservation
kit and talk to us about deacification methods |
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| The
law of irreversability |
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Don't do anything irreverable to your treasures such as lamination,
drymounting, or heatsealing! Always ensure that you can return
your photo or keepsake to its original state if necessesary.
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Ever
wonder why some treasures and keepsakes deteriorate faster
than others? Preservation is essentially a three-part harmony
consisting of:
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"genetics": the chemical and material make-up of the keepsake
(ie: what it is and how it was created …. a letter written
on a piece of paper made from a wood-pulp process or a
photograph created out of a chemical reaction
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"environment" : its conditions of storage and use
(ie: the type of environment it has been stored in (an
attic, a dresser drawer, a plastic bag) and how it has
been handled (read every day, used as a coaster)
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"packaging": the materials being used to preserve it (ie:
stored in an acid-free box in the proper environment,
kept in an airtight plastic container in a basement)
Nothing
lasts forever, but some materials will last longer depending
on the tune that the three-part harmony whistles! A keepsake
with "great genetics" which has been kept in an archivally-favorable
environment, handled carefully, and stored in archival containers
has the best chances for a long and happy life.
screeny pro
For
instance, a newspaper clipping which has been kept in a mouldy
basement for thirty years is not a great "preservation rescue"
prospect. Newsprint is not not by nature a medium that lasts
long and coupled with the probably damage incurred while in
its damp and cold environment, means that the best "reformed"
storage environment and care will not do a lot to make it
last. In this case, both the genetics and environment are
not favorable. It would be a waste to spend the money on an
acid-free file folder to keep it in. Is this newpaper clipping
doomed? Not in this case! By photocopying the clipping onto
acid-free paper then storing it archivally, the information
on that clipping has a much better chance for survival! Its
"clone" has been given better genetics than the original,
and the owner having decided to keep it in an acid-free envelope,
folder, or album in a cool, dry place has virtually guaranteed
it a longer life.
So
even if you invest time and money into buying archival containers
and storing them in an acceptable environment, depending on
how your keepsakes were created and kept before you decided
to preserve them, you cannot guarantee your treasures an infinite
lifetime. Just think of the person genetically pre-disposed
to wrinkles who sits out in the sun without sunscreen day
after day then lavishes her skin with the most expensive skin
products as a last-ditch attempt to restore her skin's youthful
appearance. Is her indulgence a waste of time? Probably! On
the other hand, don't we all have a great-aunt somewhere who
never put anything on her skin, ate all the "wrong" stuff
and at the age of 80 has cheeks like a twenty-year-old? Or
the neighbour who eats everything in sight and never gains
an ounce?
Some
people are simply blessed with great genes! Same thing for
your family jewels. Some keepsakes, because of their "good
genetics", seem to last for ages despite being mistreated
and stored poorly! A great example of this is pre-Industrial
Revolution writing paper. Unlike the unfortunate newsclipping
discussed above, paper made before the advent of wood pulp
paper factories was made from cotton, a purer medium. Less
acidic and free from the chemicals that are added to give
paper whiteness and body much pre-1850's still looks great
today despite being stored in awful conditions. What's the
secret? Good "genes!"
Understanding
the three-part harmony of preservation and knowing what you
can improve to keep your treasures in shape will help you
to preserve the keepsakes that are most important to you.
But
first, a word about one of the the main terrorizers of your
"family jewels": acetic acid.
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